Its even better in Zipolite this time round. I’m not sick, I have one or 2 friends – (though this is a place that is much much easier to enjoy on your own than the colder climes of Oaxaca City) and I’m just a bit more adjusted to how things work here, including getting used to what food to order.
Oh, and there’s just one or 2 other small reasons too…
The other day I saw one of the most amazing things I’ve ever witnessed!
I was sat overlooking the beach, taking in some shade and a pineapple juice when in front of me, in the dramatic surf right at the shore, I see a huge fish leap into the sky. As I watch I realise its dolphin -I yelp with delight and continue to watch open jawed as I see 2 of them, clear as day, riding the big waves into the shore. One leaps out of the water again – its such a wonderous delight to witness, I’m by myself but just laughing with delight and happiness! People start looking and pointing and going to the shore to get a closer look. But the dolphins (as is their way) have come, given brief intense joy to those who witnessed them and disappeared again almost as quickly as they arrived.
This was a gift to be enjoyed fully in the moment, but if I had taken a picture it would have looked a little like this.
I also saw huge birds in my journey through the mountains to get back to the coast. I had thought they were some kind of eagle but, on seeing them fly really very low down walking along the beach, I was able to research and discover that they were in fact Turkey Vultures and there seemed to be loads of them around Oaxaca at that time. They are enormous! And an impressive bird to witness.
Again, not my picture but this is what they look like
And on the beach reading my book, laid down facing the sand I would rest for a moment and look to the side to see tiny crabs going about their business, hovering on the edge of their hole in the sand, testing whether its safe to come out or whether they need to scarper sideways back in to avoid the ocean swell. They are funny little things, almost transparent and moving so quickly. Walking along the beach if you look down you see them constantly sideways sprinting into their little holes in the sand, avoiding the multitude of human feet.
I took a massage while I was here which was probably the best I have ever had – it combined massage with chiropractics. I decided from now to only get massages people who are BOTH chiropractors AND masseuses- it was the best.
After my massage out in the hostel bar on the beach, safely in the shade away from the midday sun, sipping my lemon, strawberry and mint juice (yes, try it!), listening to the resident dog howl along in a hilarious way with the music (one of my favourite songs in fact, I didn’t much rate Bruno’s version….), watching people sitting, chatting, going for a swim, sipping a beer, watching the bright sun shine off the sea I decide – ‘Yep! This is paradise!’
One of my favourite things here is the sea. It has such character – it is so playful. Its waves reach up surprisingly far occasionally to tickle your toes, invite you in. The surf is frequently strong, bubbly, frothy and the rips pull you about, but in a fun cheeky way -like a big puppy that doesn’t know its own strength. I don’t doubt the power of these waves though; the number of lives they must have taken, its just the nature of the sea when you are in it even in the shallows – cooling, energetic, bright – is so inviting and delightful.
And something I remember so clearly, that takes me back to the feeling of standing in that sea with the strong waves rushing around me, is the glitter effect created when the sand is whipped up by the strong tide, and the brightness of the sun reflects off the sand particles. Magical!
Something else I get to enjoy this time round is the night sky. When I was last here it was a full moon – which was helpful for picking your way home across the beach – but this time, walking down the beach at night I get to drink in a deep navy sky studded with thousands of starts, all twinkling at different brightness, many constellations I don’t recognise, or in different places in the sky from what I am used to. Something else that just makes me want to laugh with delight!
I write this all from the comfort of my hammock in the perfect, lovely, peaceful and beautiful hostel I’m staying in, where this time round I have an even better room than last time (en suite, ooh!). I have my own desk (I should use this really rather then writing almost lying down but you know, its not often you get to blog from a hammock), my own sofa, and a little table and chairs on a terrace outside.
Lovely unusual creative details everywhere make this place (which is built of wood amongst the palm trees) so pretty; all hand made & painted by the owner who runs the place beautifully and looks after her guests so well (including me when I was sick!). Its also immaculately clean which gets a massive thumbs up from me.
And how is it possible to feel sad, when what wakes you in the morning is bright sunlight, streaming in through the slits in the bamboo blinds?
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